The former Portuguese enclave of Goa, midway down India’s southwest coast, has been a holiday destination since colonial times, when British troops and officials used to travel here from across the country for a spot of “R&R”. Now it’s the golden, palm-fringed beaches spread along the state’s 105km coastline that pull in the tourists – around two million of them each winter. Cheap air travel has spawned a dramatic rise in the number of domestic visitors in recent years, and planeloads of free-spending Russians have also started to pour in. Yet in spite of the increasing chaos of Goa’s main resorts. If you know where to go, Goa can still be a wonderful place to recuperate from the travails of life on the road.